I. Magnim Department Store

I. Magnim was acquired by Macy's Department Store in 1994

Ironically  Hattie Carnegie’s introduction to the fashion world was via Macy's

I.Magnim was the first department store to purchase her wholesale collection.

 Hattie Carnegie made a very intelligent business decision when she decided to allow I..Magnim to purchase her clothing collection to be sold in their west coast based department stores.

The year was 1925. Hattie had just signed a deal that would bring her fame from coast to coast as her clothing line would now be as easily accessible to Hollywood starlets as it was to New York City socialities.  Her fashions and hats would now be seen in movies as they had been seen on Broadway beginning a decade before.

This deal would also make Hattie Carnegie, a very successful and wealthy woman. This was the same woman who as a young immigrant didn’t even want to venture into Macy’s because she felt why should she venture into a store where she couldn’t afford to purchase a hatpin. This very intelligent business deal showed just how much status Hattie Carnegie had achieved in the business world.

I. Magnim was the first of hundred department stores to purchase Hattie Carnegie’s collection.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I. Magnim Facts

I Magnim was the first department store to be founded by a woman. It was established in the late 19^th century,  by Mary Ann Magnin.

The “I” in I Magnim was in honor of Mary Ann’s husband, Isaac.

The first store opened in San Francisco, but other stores followed in throughout the state of California. The store even expanded outside of California with locations in Seattle, Washington, Phoenix, Arizona and Chicago, Illinois.

The main location in San Francisco was very chic, and very beautiful with Art Deco and modern decors. The interior consisted of chandeliers, mirrored cabinets, bronze elevator doors. 

I Magnim was known for their women’s clothing, but they also sold men’s and children’s clothing and as well as few gift items.

I Magnim faded into retail history when in 1994. Macy’s Department Store which just a few years, before filed for Chapter 11 protection acquired both the Jordan Marsh and the I Magnim store chains. By 1996 all these stores also had the Macy’s nameplate.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Macy’s Department Store Facts

Macy’s was the first department store to hire women for management positions.

The first store to ulitize the one price system.

The first store to quote prices in advertising

Macy’s introduced products such as the tea bag, Idaho potatoes and colored bath towels. 

 They were the first retailer to be granted a New York City liquor license.

In 1904, The same  year that Hattie had begun working at Macy’s. They moved to their current Broadway and 34^th street location.

In 1922 Macy’s became one of the first store to acquire their competition by buying them out.

In 1924 was the very first Macy’s parade complete with floats, animals and bands. The parade was started by a group of immigrant employees who wanted to celebrate American traditions. The parades are still a proud tradition some eighty years later.

In 1924 Macy’s was now the Worlds Largest Department Store

In 1945 the store opened up a California location,  the famous Macy’s Flower Show became a yearly event.

On December 19^th 1994 Federated Department Stores merged with Macy’s creating the world’s largest premier department store company. Federated Department Stores operated over 400 department stores and more than 157 specialty stores in 37 states and several overseas locations. 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 References

Macy's Department Store History

http://www.macys.com/store/about/history/index_my.jsp?bhcp=1

http://www.greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=00BOCc

                                                 MILLINERY

A milliner is a designer of hats for women.

Hattie Carnegie received her millinery training (and her nickname) while she was employed through Macy’s Department Store between the years of 1902-1909

She started out as a salesgirl, then she graduated to modeling, but the department store needed additional milliners on staff so they decided to train current employees including young Henrietta.

Henrietta showed so much promise and talent as a hat designer, her co-workers and supervisors begun to refer to her as “Hattie”

Are you Surprised?

An interesting fact was that Hattie could not sew a straight seam. She mentioned in interviews that she pinned/ wired/fastened her hats together and attached the ribbons, lace and flowers to them in the same fashion. Although she couldn’t sew like most of the other Macy employees she was very skilled, was a quick study, and was proud to state that she could get projects completed in record time.

Millinery and seamstress work was one of the few professions besides teaching, cooking or housekeeping available to the women of the 19^th and early 20^th century

Milliners Contributions to the Fashion World

Milliners were in high demand because at the turn of the century fashionable ladies always complimented their wardrobes with a beautiful hat.  A hat was an essential part of a daily wardrobe. The most sought after hats had beautiful feathers attached to the material.  Fancy hats symbolized status because they were more expensive it was because of this the expression, a feather in your cap was first coined.

Who usually became a Milliner?

Milliners who owned shops were usually middle-aged women who had never married because married women usually did not work outside the home. Younger women who were seamstresses or milliners like Hattie became were so out of necessity because the main household provider had passed or because the family experienced extreme poverty and needed some additional income. It was because of these reasons that a twelve year old Henrietta left school for full time employment. Millinery/seamstress training provided not only a valuable skill for women, but milliners and seamstresses usually received some of the highest wages.

A Talented Young Lady

Henrietta found that she really enjoyed millinery work and had fun creating unique one of a kind designs. She first knew that she had talent when all the women in the neighborhood were clamoring to buy the piece of blue velvet that she draped as a turban on her head simply because it was the style of the time.

When she turned the Kanengeiser apartment into a millinery shop, and utilized the dinner table as a work area. Her mother foreclosed on her first enterprise.

A few years later when she began selling hats locally she created her first label with a play on her new name HATENGIE

Garment District Employment

Millinery and seamstress work, although time consuming was considered a skilled labor because the designs were most often handmade and original with a personal touch by the designer. They were most often custom made creations.  On the other hand, factory work was just as tedious and much more dangerous due to the machinery and chemicals used and not regulated within the factories.

Factory work was considered unskilled labor with very low wages

Here is an interesting link to a book all about millinery.

http://www.hatbook.com/

Did Isaac Singer actually invent the Sewing Machine?

Why was it first rejected?

 In 1853 with the invention of the sewing machine the entire garment industry was changed forever. Designing was made easier and faster. Now clothing and hats could be mass-produced. Despite the improvements the machine could offer the garment industry the majority of tailors, seamstresses and milliners were not ready to accept the new invention for fear that it would lead to job loss.

I had always wondered why Hattie Carnegie who was the daughter of a tailor, couldn’t sew, cut or stitch.  The Kanengeiser family was very poor. Therefore I seem to think if Isaac Kanengeiser bought a personal sewing machine to complete projects at home. Hattie and her siblings were most likely forbade to touch the machine because it would have been expensive to buy a replacement if it was broken.

Legal Battles

There was a legal battle for patent rights to the sewing machine. Elias Howe actually invented the first sewing machine designed for industrial use. He received a patent and attempted to get a group of tailors interested in purchasing his invention. The tailors were understandably apprehensive.

Howe decided to try his market the invention overseas. He failed and a few years later returned to America. By this time Isaac Singer had marketed a similar type of machine with a few changes. This time opinions shifted and the sewing machine became a commercial success. It was improved upon.  It was made with a smaller scale design for home use. When Howe returned he found out about Singer’s invention and it’s similarity to his own and sued him for a portion of the profits made from any sale. Howe won the suit and died a rich man because Singer was forced by the court to pay Howe  royalties, from the sales,  but Singer received the credit and it still considered by many as the creator of the first modern and functional sewing machine.

http://www.ideafinder.com/history/inventions/story065.htm

Did you know?…………….

Did you know that there is actually a museum in England dedicated entirely to milliners and the art of millinery?

http://www.hatworks.org.uk/home.htm

And also a huge display of hats from every era located in Ontario Canada

http://www.infoniagara.com/bb/Niagara-Falls/bampfield/hat.html

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                                    R.H. MACY AND ISADOR STRAUS

                                        - THE HISTORY OF RETAIL -

Thanksgiving is the time of year when the internationally known department store celebrates a proud history.

The store was the dream of Rowland Hussey Macy.

R. H. Macy was not an immediate success. He failed at several business ventures before he finally achieved his dream when Macy’s small but fancy dry goods store opened for business in 1858. He needed to choose a symbol for his new store, a trademark that people would remember and that would stand out. He selected a red star to symbolize his navy days and his service to America. He had a red star tattooed to his arm upon his enlistment to the service. He recognized the importance of the star, and he was also very superstitious.  He didn’t lose any time in having the red star placed on the sign. The star remains as part of the store logo to this very day.  The star revolutionized advertising

A SHINING STAR

Well that star shined over Macy’s. The first day sales totaled only $11.06, but by the end of the first year the books totaled $90,000. R. H. Macy made retail what it is today. He implemented the one price system, which meant that every shopper paid the same price for a said item. He not only began using logos as an advertising tool (The Red Star) He also used the newspaper to bring additional business his way. Advertising his store to the public and showcasing certain products each week with a creative advertising tag line.

He was very proud of the fact that he introduced products to the public such as tea bags and colored bath towels. Macy’s was the first store to promote women to management and executive positions. The first woman manager was named Margaret Getchell.

Margaret Getchell paved the way for many other women who had executive dreams including Hattie Carnegie.

R. H. Macy was never Hattie Carnegie’s boss. Macy died in 1877. Nine years prior to Hattie’s birth. When Macy passed away in he left the store to his daughter and his son to continue the family business.

R. H. Macy Jr. had a severe drinking problem, which was ironic because Macy’s was the first department store to obtain a New York State liquor license.

 Sadly, Macy’s son’s drinking problem practically ran his late father’s store into bankruptcy.

It was causing him to make irrational and irresponsible business decisions, he was alienating the employees and board members.

Isador Straus a German immigrant would save the company.

WHO WAS MR. STRAUS?

Isador Straus was born in Rhenish, Bavaria (Germany) on February 6, 1845.

Lazarus Straus settled his family, in Georgia when his eldest son was seven years old.

The young son was gifted so he enrolled and was accepted into a classical music course at Collinsworth Institute. Upon graduation his interests shifted.  Classical music study was no longer his first career choice.  Music literally became just a career to fall back on. His dream was to enroll at West Point Military Academy, but with the onset of the Civil War  He wanted to serve so he volunteered to sign up for the Confederate Army, but he was rejected because at sixteen they thought that he was too young to volunteer and they were concerned about his ability to be an effective soldier. Isador felt like his career options were running out, therefore he decided to work in his father’s store at least until the war officially ended

The south struggled throughout the war. Following the bloody and bitter five-year battle the south struggled to rebuild their economy. The south was a difficult place to survive. The war had destroyed the economy and many southerners were close to starvation.

The Straus family had now adopted a strong southern identity, but they made the difficult decision to relocate in one of the northern cities. Isador suggested New York City to his father who reluctantly agreed. When they settled in New York City, Lazarus again reopened his glassware business renaming it L. Straus and Sons. Since their births, Lazarus had hoped that his sons would wish to continue the business he built someday to encourage them he changed the name. L. Straus and Sons was a proven success in addition to glassware and earthenware they also specialized in china and porcelain.

STRAUS AS A LEADER

In 1874, R.H. Macy, who was a very busy man and discovered he needed management assistance. He asked the Straus to take charge and manage the department store glassware department. Shortly before his death,  Macy who had a reputation for buying out his competition bought out eleven of the neighboring buildings expanding the store an entire block.   Mr. Straus had many ideas to improve upon the business of his friend and former employer. He strived to keep Macy’s dream a reality. Despite his honorable intentions he still didn’t have complete authority to implement his improvements. He was equally distressed by the poor management decisions of R.H. Macy Jr. who took over the store after his father’s passing in 1877. The younger Macy’s poor management skills were at least partially attributed to his drinking problem. Mr. Straus purchased the department store from R. H. Macy Jr. who was more than happy to give up the responsibility in 1888.

Isador and Nathan took over the management of the store while brother Oscar, traveled overseas buying merchandise to sell in the store. Oscar Straus was involved in politics. He was a member of President Roosevelt cabinet in the Department of Commerce and Labor. He was also appointed as Ambassador to Turkey. That allowed him the opportunity to travel selecting interesting and sought after items to sell at Macy’s.

Isador and his brothers selected to retain the name Macy’s for two reasons, out of respect for their former employer and also because the name was internationally known.

Little Henrietta , Mr. Straus and Macy's

Henrietta Kanengeiser first walked through the Macy’s Department Store doors in 1902 at the encouragement of friends who wanted her to see the beautiful fashions and jewelry.

She was told that she should also inquire about any job openings.

She didn’t want to go into the store simply to dream. Henrietta couldn’t even afford to purchase a pair of socks from Macy’s, but as usual curiosity got the best of Henrietta.

She ventured into the Women’s Department and looked around at the stylish dresses and hats that she couldn’t possibly afford on a factory workers salary, till she stopped a dress that she didn’t like.

Offering unsolicited advice to the management and designers she gave her opinion,

“I don’t like this dress it’s far too plain, but would look fabulous with a fir collar and cuffs.”

She wanted to know what everybody thought.

Mr. Straus became very annoyed at this young girl who obviously hadn’t any intention of purchasing a dress criticizing the merchandise.

He said, “You can’t be serious, you don’t put a fir collar and cuffs on an evening gown!”

Mr. Straus now gave his opinion, “You are a foolish girl, and you don’t work here.”

Not ready to be shown the door just yet, Henrietta scribbled her name on a slip on paper and shouted at Mr. Straus, “If you don’t want to take my advice, then you can at least give me a job.”

Mr. Straus decided to try her idea, maybe out of admiration of her independent nature, maybe out of sheer annoyance and exhaustion from arguing with her. It was most likely a little bit of both. The dresses with the fur collars and cuffs sold unbelievably well. He located Henrietta and offered her a job in the women’s department.

Over the next several years, Henrietta and Mr. Straus would have many other battles of wills, but the initial distain for one another turned into a mutual admiration and respect.

Mr. Straus considered Henrietta a young prodigy and her ideas continued to make the department store money. She didn’t have a fancy wardrobe, so they fitted her with a few dresses free of charge, if she agreed to model them. She was offered management and millinery training. “Hattie” excelled at Macy’s and became an ambitious young lady. She put her education to good use when she opened up her own shop years later.

The Titanic

The year was 1912 and Isador Straus had been married to his wife Ida for over thirty years. The couple was very much in love. They were the proud parents of six grown children. The couple found an excuse to celebrate everything which really wasn’t difficult when they even shared a birthday. Isador feeling over worked at Macy’s decided to take a relaxing vacation with Ida to Europe. They also brought their staff with them. Traveling along with the couple was their butler and housekeeper. Also accompanying the couple on the voyage to Europe was their youngest daughter Beatrice. To conclude their wonderful vacation Isador wanted to travel back to New York in style, so they booked a first class cabin on the brand new ship The Titanic. The only person absent from the return trip was Beatrice who wanted to stay in Europe a little longer

They were pleased and very excited to travel on this ship that sea captains raved about. There was much talk about the unsinkable luxury liner.

A cold April night a tragedy happened, the ship hit an iceberg and slowly sank into the ocean. Most of the third class passengers drowned and the ones that didn’t drown froze to death in the frigid waters of the North Atlantic. When the first class passengers first sensed their lives were in danger. The situation was chaotic. There weren’t enough lifeboats because the ship was said to be unsinkable People fought over the boats.

It was decided that women and children were to get into the available lifeboats first.

Isador begged Ida to get into a boat, but when she was told that her husband wasn’t going to be rescued she leaped out the boat and ran into his arms. Isador was recognized as the owner of Macy’s Department Store. He was told that he was important and that he should get to a lifeboat fast. In a act of bravery and unselfishness. Isador Straus said he was no more important than other man he was simply just more well known. He would let a woman who still remained on the ship take a spot in a lifeboat. That was very courageous. He gave up his life so another person could row to safety.

Ida and Isador Straus died in each other arms.

Mr. Straus, a very important mentor to Hattie Carnegie. Now I understand why he was.  Isador Straus was a true hero.

Hattie never forgot him. She was deeply saddened to learn of his passing because she owed so much to his kindness. The joint funeral for the couple was held at Carnegie Hall.  The lives and the unselfish sacrifice of this loving couple was honored by over 6000 attendees.

Did you know?

From the Cyclopedia:
He and his wife, a woman of sweetness and strength, were passengers on the SS Titanic on its ill-fated maiden voyage across the Atlantic. When the order was given for women and children to take to the life-boats, Mrs. Straus would not leave her husband. Straus was strongly urged to take a place in the boats with her, but refused to do so as long as any women remained on board. Mrs. Straus declined to be separated from her companion of forty years, so the aged couple went down with the ship. Straus' was a strong individuality, compounded of keen insight, sound judgement, high integrity, candid statement, and high executive powers. He was a man of simple tastes, democratic accessibility, and cordial large-heartedness

From THE CYCLOPEDIA OF AMERICAN BIOGRAPHY (aka 'Appleton's), ed. J.E,
Homans. Volume X, p. 204. New York: Press Association Compilers, Inc., 1924:
He was a warm friend of President Cleveland and took an active part in the campaign which resulted in Cleveland's re-election in 1892. It is said that he was invited to become Postmaster General, but declined the honor. It was due to his influence that Cleveland set himself fairly behind the gold standard and called Congress in extra session (8/7/1893) for the repeal of that clause of the Sherman Act which compelled the Treasury to make monthly purchases of silver bullion for monetary purposes. Straus remained a Gold Democrat, losing his party enthusiasm when his party adopted the Free Silver platform under William Jennings Bryan's leadership...He served in Congress from 1/30/1894-3/3/1895, declining renomination. He also declined to be considered for the Democratic nomination for mayor of New York in 1901 and 1909.

REFERENCES

 Titanic the Musical

http://www.dodger.com/titanic/titanic-bio-keith.htm

 Isador Straus’ obituary

http://www.encyclopedia-titanica.org/item.php/3855.html

 The History of Macy’s

http://www.macys.com/store/about/history/index_my.jsp?bhcp=1

Ida and Isador Straus

http://members.aol.com/ken63728/cr7.htm

From Biography

http://home.interlynx.net/~dclarke/straus.htm

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

            The Controversial Businesswoman Hattie Carnegie was well ahead of her time in many aspects.

She was direct and outspoken, when it was not acceptable for women to be that way.

She knew exactly what she wanted in life and she knew that she could not be passive to achieve her dreams.

As I have stated throughout this website,  Hattie was never a stranger to controversy, but she did protect herself and she could be fiercely private.

This site was a difficult time consuming project for me because Hattie was very successful in separating her personal life from her business persona and from her career, but some things followed her throughout her lifetime. She could not erase the label she was given to her. The label that she earned which was the label of a controversial businesswoman.

Hattie made no excuses, about some of the items she sold in her shop including the lacy, silky lingerie, which she promoted in her catalogs. She commented in a 1945 interview, that she believed that women dressed to please men, not to impress other women, and they should dress to make the man in their life happy. That was important to remember that the woman should always be noticed before the dress and the dress should complement the woman’s beauty to the extent that people will first notice

What a beautiful woman instead of what a beautiful dress when a woman enters a room.

Hattie was the first to raise hemlines above the knee, which just like the lingerie displeased many of her older, once loyal customers. When Hattie had the grand opening of her Jenue Fille shop. Many parents were concerned about the merchandise that she might be promoting in her new shop to their impressionable teenage girls based on some of the merchandise that she sold in her other shops. Hattie quickly eased their fears by telling them that all the clothing and styles were age appropriate, she personally felt that a young lady should be decently covered. If her customers wished to inspect some of the inventory they were more than welcome to browse but she defended her position on a few changes in the fashion world like that she still thought that nothing was wrong with the raised hemlines.

Aline Griffith who worked for Hattie Carnegie in the 1940’s and resigned to assist the allies during World War II,  authored a series of three books about her experiences before, during and after the war, she talked about her years modeling for Hattie in her first book titled

“The Spy who Wore Red.” In this book, she mentioned how much her grandmother objected to a young lady modeling, dressing up and wearing all that make-up. She begged her grandmother not to talk to Hattie about her objections because it would embarrass her.

Aline may have been embarrassed but Hattie certainly was not. Here was a woman, who although it was not intended once conducted an emergency business meeting while she was at home taking a bubble bath.

Hattie was also known to bring several outfits to work with her everyday, because when someone would ask for a suit like the one that she was currently wearing she would go into one of the dressing rooms, change her outfit and pass her startled customer the suit that she was previously wearing.

One fashion magazine writer once got the shock of her life when Hattie went into the dressing room to change her outfit yet again, The writer was scheduled to interview her, Hattie had forgotten all about the scheduled interview that particular afternoon, When she heard her name being called she thought it was only one of her employees, she stepped out of the dressing room and was wearing nothing but her slip.

Hattie loved makeup and began wearing cosmetics when she was employed through Macy’s Department Store. The other girls taught her how to properly wear cosmetics. Hattie loved all the various shades and colors. Cosmetics were controversial during her teenage years, but she did not care. Hattie began her own line of cosmetics years later in 1946 and she offered her employees and her customers lessons in applying cosmetics and matching the shades.

Hattie was known to be very truthful and honest with her customers. She would risk the loss of a sale rather than have a woman walk out of her shop wearing an outfit she considered unbecoming on them. She offended many customers by being so direct.

Many salesgirls were shocked that Hattie would actually kill a sale just because she did not approve of the customers selection. Hattie would still give her salesgirl her commission because her customer was buying and it was Hattie who had killed the sale.

Hattie Carnegie wasn’t afraid to offer her opinions on a wide range of taboo subjects, including prohibition, smoking and divorce.

Hattie disagreed with prohibition; she thought the entire restriction was wrong. She confessed in later interviews that during prohibition she knew where to get alcohol, and enjoyed social drinking at parties, especially champagne proudly proclaiming t hat prohibition did not her stop nor her friends.

Hattie was often the type who believed,

Do as I say, not as I do, when she found out a group of her young models were out drinking and partying at illegal speakeasies around New York. City, her motherly side surfaced when she lectured them about their behavior telling them that she was very upset and disappointed that they would do such a thing .

One of the girls defended herself by addressing Hattie’s behavior,

“You and Major Zanft drink?”

Hattie response was simply,

 “That’s Okay, we’re old!”

Hattie started smoking cigarettes when she arrived in America. It was just getting fashionable for young women to smoke; those fancy holders made it all the more glamorous and appealing because you could look chic with a cigarette in your hand. Hattie’s mother hated it when her daughter smoked and always made her put out the cigarette immediately.

Helen Kanengeiser (Carnegie) objections to her daughter smoking the cigarettes was not because the cigarettes were unhealthy because the dangers of smoking were not discovered yet. It was because it was unladylike.

Hattie’s mother attended the majority of the fashion shows. Helen (Henna) Carnegie was a little woman who had blonde hair and curls, and she looked like an older version of Hattie.

Hattie’s employees loved Mrs. Carnegie, watching Mrs. Carnegie lecture her daughter was priceless. They thought it was hysterical when she would catch Hattie lighting a cigarette, she would yell at her with that thick Austrian accent,

“Henrietta, put out that awful cigarette now!” And they would all laugh hysterically

On the day of her divorce, Hattie felt that she needed to sign those papers and when she did so she was free.

Free from a tradition in her culture which she did not agree with “Arranged Marriages”

Even though she was born out of an arrangement she still spoke out against arrangements because she thought they were unfair to everyone involved.

“Why should a person be forced to marry someone that they didn’t love or only met if they strictly followed tradition on their wedding day.

 She tried to accept the tradition and did so for many years, divorce was so taboo, her husband did not believe in divorce, they compromised on trial separations. The couple would separate and Hattie would travel to Europe without her husband. Then they would reunite and he would travel with her, attempting yet again to make the marriage work, but it was to no avail. They eventually went to the courthouse and signed the papers. When she signed the papers, she told the public, that she did not hold any bitterness toward her ex husband, wished him well,  because she really did care about him, but she just did not love him. Eventually they both felt locked in to that marriage,  signing those papers meant freedom. She thought that divorce could be a positive step for a couple who were unhappy.

When she married Major John Zanft, Hattie was on her third marriage, she became the subject of gossip as to how long this marriage was going to last. She ignored the press because she loved John.  Hattie proved her critics wrong because this marriage lasted until her death.

John would often be called to Hollywood to assist with various projects. Many times Hattie had to stay behind in New York when asked how she felt about her husband traveling without her she surprised many people when she said, that he never gave her a reason not to trust him, so it did not bother her if he went without her. Hattie seemed secure in his love for her and she was not the least bit jealous. She trusted him.

 -------------------------------------------------------------------------

apart, both in their 70’s. “How dare they that I should live longer,” she said. She admires them for having achieved what they had achieved despite the limitations imposed by the Chinese Exclusion Act. “So we beat ‘em!” she exclaimed.

“Beating ‘em” seems to have been the constant challenge throughout her life, and she succeeded every time.

A former Reader’s Digest editor and an old friend of Miss Li brought her to The Village at 46th & Ten and introduced her to the program there, she relates. She liked what she saw and moved in shortly thereafter. Her quick wit and cheerful personality have endeared her to staff and residents alike.

Reference:Village Care of New York

http://www.vcny.org/news/li_ling_ai.html

-------------------------------------------------------------------

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 Nursing Aide is Vital to Hopkins' Fiancee

    New York Times-July 10th 1942

HATTITUDE

Hattie Carnegie's temper was as well known in fashion circles as her little Carnegie suit.

Her petite stature might have fooled some people momentarily that she was passive that was until someone made her angry.

Hattie would seldom shy away from a confrontation. She was also very direct and outspoken. Sometimes her outbursts were uncalled for and totally irrational, sometimes they had a purpose because she was a little lady trying to make it in the business world when the business world was an unaccepting and extremely cold place for a woman in charge, not only that Hattie's beloved father Isaac, didn't even take her dreams seriously when she was growing up and she treasured her fathers opinion.

Other times I tend to believe that Hattie's anger was a defense mechanism.

Hattie had a difficult and challenging life from the very beginning. She was born into extreme poverty and was expected to be a little adult and to take on the responsibilities of an adult even before she even officially became a teenager, because this was engrained into her at such an early age she grew up expecting those around her to take the same serious approach to life.

Hattie Carnegie was a teacher above all,  she may not have have carried a wooden ruler to slap knuckles, but she had unlimited access to pins and she could stick a person just like they were a homemade voodoo doll. Lucille Ball noted this in her biography, "Love, Lucy" that when she would tire and become restless during fittings she was start to joke around. Hattie would stick her with a pin to bring her back to reality, then she would pretend that it was accident,  but Lucille knew that it was attempt to get her to listen to direction. Hattie actually thought that Lucille was a riot, but she would never admit it to her and she would often turn away, so Lucille would not see her laughing at her antics.

Aline Griffith described her modeling experience in this way. Hattie was very strict and she wanted her employees to be prompt and she didn't like to accept excuses for tardiness. Aline had been late to work all week. After the third day this happened Hattie told her that if she was late one more time that she was going to be in trouble, and she best be on time tomorrow because they had an important photo shoot and it was going to take all day.

The following day was a cold, rainy, muddy March morning and Aline knew that she was going to be late yet again, and she knew that Hattie wasn't going to be happy.

To save time she decided to hail a taxi cab, she arrived at the shop in record time. She was going to make it, she was in such a hurry that she practically threw the money at the taxi cab driver, but when she getting out of the taxi cab she lost her footing and fell face down in a mud puddle. The beautiful light blue dress that she was wearing for the upcoming photo shoot was totally ruined, she panicked because Hattie was going to be furious, not only was she late, but the dress that she changed into at home to save time was now ruined. She was prepared for the worst.

Hattie came down the staircase, she spotted Aline who was standing there looking pitiful awaiting her punishment

At first Hattie stared at her in stunned silence than she did something unexpected and completely out of character she burst out laughing. Hattie was still in hysterics when she commented,

 "Aline, No self respecting girl would show up to work like that, you can go and change into a different dress we will wait."

 Aline was relieved, she was saved another day.

John Zanft may have once been in the army, but it was Hattie who had the temper of a drill sergeant. John would often defend Hattie's employees, by telling her that they were just kids. Ironically though,  he didn't feel that way about the kids that he dealt with on a daily basis at the reformatory.

The kids at the reformatory hadn't any ambition they were there because they committed some very serious crimes, but society had decided. John Zanft wanted to save these kids from a life behind bars.

Hattie's employees were the opposite they were the best of the best kids with ambition and heart,  they were personally chosen by Hattie,  for their determination and skill. John sometimes thought that Hattie was too strict with the ambitious kids.

Hattie disagreed with her husband and defended her position by stating that if they couldn't take simple direction from her that they would never make in their chosen fields, they were ambitious because adults were strict with them. She was decidedly the hardest on those that she liked the best, believed in the most, but just as equally she cheered them on in their accomplishments.

One employee of Hattie's had this to say about the

"Tiny Dynamo"

Hattie is fiercely loyal to those employees, that she loves, she will never really fire them, but if she doesn't like you, you might as well leave because you will never get anywhere, if you get on her bad side."

Hattie would have a temper tantrum, fire an employee and before they could make it to the next block they would be rehired. She was quick to snap and lose her temper, but she would be just as quick to forgive, and the next day all would be fine in Carnegie's world.

When she lost her temper she would shout,

"You're Fired, Get out!"

The employee never cried or yelled back at her because they were used to it, many were actually happy.  

How could they be upset, they had the afternoon off and it was a beautiful day in New York.

Hattie cheerfully plead guilty to her temper. It's a simple fact that she was proud of it. She would always say that she was tough on her employees, she expected a lot from them, but that was because they were gifted and she wanted them to make the most of their talents.

She often took a group of aspiring designers with her on her trips to Paris. The designers were eager to go. Hattie would pay their tickets, but she wanted them to understand that this was not a vacation and they were going to learn a lot. When the designers appeared restless at the announcement, Hattie response was,

"You all best listen because you may be tested later."

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                  Hattie Carnegie Jewelry

When someone hears the name Hattie Carnegie, the first thought that comes to most, is hats, dresses, fashionable suits, and evening attire. During her lifetime, she was a household name but Hattie Carnegie was never credited as a jewelry designer.

It is documented, in a number of reliable sources that Hattie did not officially launch a jewelry line until 1939. Even at it’s onset in 1939, the jewelry line was secondary to the fashions. It was merely utilized as a complimentary item to a beautiful dress.

Hattie Carnegie actually always loved jewelry. She was most partial to turquoise and pearls.

Pearls would eventually become her trademark.

Major John Zanft bought her a beautiful three-strand necklace; it is rare to find a photograph of Hattie when she is not wearing those beloved pearls.

Hattie adored pearls so much that when John proposed to her he put the diamond ring back and selected a rare pearl ring encircled by diamonds for his bride.

I saw a picture of Hattie’s beautiful ring, but could not enlarge it enough to get a decent picture to place on the site.

John made another wonderful contribution, not just to Hattie for buying her that pearl necklace and interesting wedding ring, but to all of us, who collect, enjoy and wear Hattie Carnegie jewelry to this day. He encouraged her to begin a jewelry line of her own when he saw that her jewelry box was overflowing with both fine jewelry and costume jewelry. She always mentioned to him that a nice outfit was made even more special with a beautiful necklace or bracelet to match. Hattie actually experimented with a piece of jewelry here and there when she incorporated her famous HC in a diamond mark in 1919, however she still did not have an official line.

Those early photographs of Hattie Carnegie models, included a young Lucille Ball, often wore matching necklaces and/or bracelets in the photographs, but the jewelry probably was not a Hattie Carnegie original, it was most likely from a well-known jewelry company of the day. Hattie freely complemented these companies in her early advertisements because she did not sense a threat from them at least up until 1939 when she officially launched her own collection.

Hattie always wanted to be credited for her hard work, so it is very rare to find an unsigned Hattie Carnegie piece.

Hattie worked hard to achieve success, to her, having her name stamped on her work was not so much a sign of vanity or pride, but as a reminder to the once poor tenenment girl of how much she had achieved in the land of opportunity.

Companies such as Hattie Carnegie Inc. had to buy a number of pieces from wholesale jewelry companies to have their company logo or designer signature stamped upon the piece, so that is why a collector can locate a number of the same pieces or styles attributed to a specific designer or company.

Hattie Carnegie’s company did design custom made clothing that was hand made by her designers at her New York shop, this was not the case with the jewelry line that was never custom made within Hattie’s shop.

     Wholesale Jewelry Companies

She selected a few trusted wholesale companies to design her jewelry.

A jewelry designer that Hattie really liked was a man by the name of Jacques “Jack” Libuono.

I would have to assume that Hattie had a special fondness for Mr. Libuono,  because he loved the French designs that she herself was so drawn to.

Hattie also liked to purchase jewelry from the Kasnoffs.

Dan Kasnoff and his son Larry sold under the name of Florenza.

The Kasnoffs had other famous clientele. Ironically, many of these companies were Hattie Carnegie competitors such as Weiss, Kramer, Coro, Capri and Revlon.

The Kasnoffs also sold jewelry under their own signature label of Florenza.

Hattie Carnegie’s brother in law often picked up the orders for her which Hattie Carnegie had herself,  personally selected.

Hattie would carefully look at and examine every example,  she refused to be rushed.

Her employees and wholesalers were made nervous by this trait.

               Strictest of Standards

Hattie Carnegie held the strictest of standards with any item that carried her name because it was a reflection of her shop.

Hattie would not hesitate and was known to actually return a piece if it was not to her liking. Everything that was sold in Hattie’s shop had to appeal to her personal sense of style and if it did not it was to be scarped.

In additional to the traditional jewelry like the bracelets and necklaces. Hattie also sold hair ornaments, buckles and jewelry boxes under the names of either “Pooped Pussy Cat” or “Pooped Poodle”

The poodle name was in reference to her pet, a little black toy poodle. A poodle was also used as a logo for her company. I have only seen one ring that was designed with Hattie’s signature, although I am sure there must have been others.

              Treasured Collections

I love Hattie Carnegie jewelry; I am always pleased to acquire a new Hattie Carnegie jewel to wear.

Many people ask me why I choose to wear my valuable collection, but I personally believe that a collection is meant to be enjoyed by the collector. I do however have a few special pieces that I refuse to wear and are kept safely in a display case, but in all honestly, I myself refuse to have a collection of something that I love if it is going to sit there and just collect dust.

My husband does not understand why, if I was given a choice that I would rather have a piece of costume jewelry by Hattie Carnegie as opposed to the fine jewelry that is found in any number of jewelry stores.

My answer is that my Hattie Carnegie collection has as much endearing and sentimental value to me as his collection of New England Patriots merchandise does to him. He does not understand why costume jewelry collectors, such as ourselves, seek out their favorite designer and it is such a quest to locate that perfect piece or that we as collectors would be hundreds of dollars for a piece of “fake” jewelry.

For example, Months ago, I wanted a Hattie Carnegie ladybug. I bid on several ladybugs on eBay, and was outbid each time. I was getting discouraged. Brian just typed in ladybug and he spotted an adorable bug, but it wouldn’t do for me,  because it was NOT A HATTIE CARNEGIE.

My husband does not see the value of a designer piece. He just simply sees the item. To him, a ladybug is a ladybug.

By the way, I eventually got my treasured ladybug, but I paid a pretty penny for it.

Brian wants me to hock my collection to purchase a new computer. I do not think that is going to happen. Brian would not hesitate to pay a couple hundred dollars for an authentic signed photograph of Super Bowl champion and New England Patriots quarterback Tom Brady, but when I mention paying a couple hundred dollars for a rare Hattie necklace or pin. His answer is,

“It’s not the same thing.”

Oh well, I cannot expect him to understand.

       My Favorite Hattie Jewelry Is

My favorite Hattie styles are her animal pins, because they are so detailed and lifelike.

My own personal Hattie Carnegie zoo, you do not have to feed them.

I also love the sparkly rhinestone necklaces that glow in the sun almost like real diamonds, and the colorful glass pieces.

My Least Favorite Hattie Jewelry Is

There are however , I few Hattie jewelry styles that I tend to avoid, especially the abstract designs.

 I just really do not care for abstract art or jewelry. I consider it ugly and also, way too new age for me.

When I look at a painting, or in this case a pin.

I want to know at first glance what it is, I do not want to guess or assume what something is supposed to be or to represent.

I guess,  I just prefer my mysteries to be printed in a novel, not featured on my lapel.

Another style that I don’t particular care for is plastic pieces, although I must admit that a few I have seen are very nice.  

I used to love plastic charm necklaces, and collecting the various charms when they were all the rage when I was growing up in the 1980’s. Lately though, I have been more drawn to the glowing rhinestone jewelry.

Discovered a Love For

Other items that I used to not care for, but now absolutely love are the faux topaz stones. I think they are very beautiful..

I would also love to acquire a rare HC marked piece which I do not own yet.

Obviously, the above statements are my personal opinions about what I prefer; another collector could feel completely different from me. That is the wonderful thing about Hattie Carnegie jewelry, she was very classy, but she also was very open minded, fun loving and adventurous, therefore she left a wide variety of styles for the collector to select from for their personal collections that are a reflection of what they themselves love.

She was an intelligent businesswoman.

For examples of Hattie's beautiful jewelry in all styles.

Please refer to the Jewelry section

Hattie and Law-SUITS

Hattie was known for extending credit to her friends and associates. It earned Hattie a very loyal customer base. However sometimes this practice backfired. Hattie was involved in two well publicized lawsuits during the 1930’s that she filed against former customers. The first was filed against James J. Walker and his wife for $12,059 the remaining balance due on a $20,059 bill

Hattie’s second lawsuit was filed against Clarence Buddington Kelland for $3,313. When contacted about the matter by Hattie Carnegie Inc he ripped up the bill because he believed the husband should not be held financially responsible for the unreasonable debts of his wife and he claimed that Ms. Carnegie’s prices were high and very unreasonable.

Mr. Kelland told the press My financial condition at no time would justify panty hose at $6.50, cloth coats at $450.00 and there wasn’t way was he was going to be made to pay $250.00 for a dress. He also added a few choice comments about Ms. Carnegie

Mr. Kelland had to pay the debt as Hattie was awarded a judgment in the 1933 case which included claims for chiffon handkerchiefs at $10.00 each, and boxes of talc for $7.50 per box.

Hattie was asked why she would wish to file suit against her customers when the Depression was so harsh on everybody.

Hattie defended her actions and replied,

“Well isn’t that the point,  I have employees to pay, and if all my customers refused to pay their outstanding balances, I would be unable to pay my employees who have families to provide for, Not only that, These customers are technically stealing from me,  and my employees.  I want to make an example of that type of customer, and this will not be tolerated by me."

On the other side of the coin, Hattie was also the defendant in a few lawsuits.

At one point prior to their marriage, and after World War I ended, Now newly reintroduced to civilian life but not ready to retire, John Zanft wanted to begin his own production company . So he borrowed a loan from Samuel Katz.

John ventured out to Hollywood with $11,000 in hand. John’s attempts at achieving his dream of founding an independent production company failed, and he resigned himself to working on the occasional project as an employee with other movie companies. He returned to New York City and resumed writing his column for the New York based Morning Telegraph. He filed bankruptcy when he begun to struggle financially. He promised Katz that he would pay his debt whenever he could manage to pay it.

Thanks to his friend William Fox who thought that John was a skilled and talented entertainment writer. He befriended John and offered him an opportunity that John could not refuse. He appointed John as Vice President of all the Fox Theaters in New York City. With this new found success , John was officially discharged from bankruptcy and paid Sam Katz $500.00 of the $11,000 that he still owed him. He asked Katz to be patient that he intended to pay the debt off in full as soon as he could manage.

John kept his word and eventually paid off the entire $11,000 dollars, that he had owed Katz.

John thought that was the end of his obligation to Katz, but Katz filed a surprise lawsuit against John that stated the he felt that John owed him an additional $605.27 of accrued interest that was never mentioned in the original document that John signed and agreed to pay upon.

John was sued by Katz for that interest amount.

On May 24^th 1938, Hattie supported her husband, and spoke upon his behalf to the press outside of the courthouse. She said that her husband was being treated unfairly, and he had already paid the debt therefore he owed Mr. Katz……NOTHING! The judge agreed and ruled against Samuel Katz.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

KNOCK-OFFS

When Hattie Carnegie held any fashion show it was always with great ceremony. Yet the fanciest of invitations were sent out by her employees, just four times a year when she showcased her upcoming fashion line for each season of the year.

The seasonal shows in particular were the time the beauty and grace of the teenaged Lucille Ball begun to really shine. Hattie gave Lucille the special assignment of appearing as the bride at the conclusion of every show

These special shows were by invitation ONLY, and if you showed up at the door without your invitation, you were not allowed inside the shop. Hattie seldom made an exception to this rule. Contrary to popular belief , Hattie was not trying to be unfair to her customers by limiting the events attendance she was protecting herself from being the victim of what people in the fashion business refer to as a knockoff, but everyone in the industry was a victim and Hattie didn’t have an immunity to this practice.

Despite the precautions made by Hattie’s staff to protect their employer an occasional spy managed to sneak in restricted rooms. Once during a wholesale showing a employee spotted a department store dress buyer in the models dressing room, they turned the dress inside out noted the detail and counted the buttons. The dress was knocked off shortly after the show.

The definition of the term "Knocked off" is copying a garment _exactly by a name designer who operates in a lower price bracket. Knock-offs are still common in the fashion world even today.

------------------------------------------------------------------

Ex-CONVICTS BREAK INTO HATTIE'S SHOP with a SHOEHORN

                    (Yes, this is a True Story)

                      Per: The New York Times: October 29, 1940

Two ex-convicts were captured at ten o’clock on the evening of October 28, 1940 after they had cracked open a window at the Salon of Hattie Carnegie at 42 East 49^th Street, by the ingenious use of a shoemaker’s awl. They looted the shop of $5000 worth of furs. One of the pair was wounded.

The prisoners who said that they were Fred Lotte, 41 years old, of 692 Ninth Ave and Charles Bauman, 34 years old, of 356 West 34^th Street, both longshoremen were being trailed by Detectives William J. Mulligan and John J. Hogan four three hours at the time of the robbery. The detectives were on a special assignment to put a halt to a series of robberies on the East Side of Manhattan.

The detectives stated that they saw the men punch a three holes at the point of a triangle in the window of H.L. Purdy, an optical goods store located at 506 Madison Ave near 52^nd Street. Then the awl was inserted at the bottom of the window pane as a lever, the pane was raised, and the sides of the triangle were cracked between the holes because of the strain placed on the glass. The triangle that was originally cut was pushed in without shattering, however this action set off an alarm, upon hearing the alarm, the men retreated to a safe distance to look on as the watchmen came to the scene. The detectives said.

Abandoning this job, because they knew that they had been caught, they decided to repeat the awl trick, at Hattie Carnegie’s shop.

The detectives decided to catch them in the act this time, and they saw the men remove three silver fox stoles, and a silver fox jacket, they folded them neatly and placed them in a paper bag. Thinking that they succeeded in the robbery of Hattie Carnegie. The men decided to make their way to Park Avenue, and 49^th Street, one walking ahead as a lookout and the other trailing behind carrying the bag of furs.

At the corner, they reunited, and entered the taxicab of Harry Smith of 214 Broome Street.

Hogan and Mulligan sprung to the doors of the cab throwing them open. Bauman then surrendered. Lotte leaped at Detective Mulligan sending him sprawling, and then he jumped from the cab and ran.

From the ground Mulligan fired one warning shot, then felled Lotte with a bullet wound in the left thigh

Both men were charged with burglary and with the possession of burglars’ tools. Bauman was locked up in the East 51^st Street, station, Lotte in Bellevue Hospital. The former admitted to having served three penitentiary terms, the latter, a term in Sing, Sing, and another in the penitentiary.

The paper bag with the furs was found on the floor of the cab and returned to Ms. Carnegie.

Both men made a deal with the detectives to help clear up other burglaries in the area.

Hi, Amy.

What the robbers used wasn't actually a shoehorn...  It was an awl used

by a shoemaker.  Here is a picture of some awls:
http://www.indiana.edu/~libpres/manual/tools/awl.html
The shoemaker punches holes in leather with an awl before stitching
through the holes with some kind of thread or cord.

What a great story!  I'm glad you found this wonderful research
reference.

I hope you are well and that life is treating you kindly.

Fondly,
 Cheri

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

according to the Jewish tradition regarding arranged marriages would become her first husband.  I don’t think that she was even aware that some twenty five to thirty years later she too would be a matchmaker.

Employees